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12 relations: Arithmetic mean, Breaking wave, Fluid dynamics, Flux, Infragravity wave, Momentum, Radiation, Radiation stress, Surf zone, Tensor, Wave shoaling, Wind wave.
Arithmetic mean
In mathematics and statistics, the arithmetic mean (stress on third syllable of "arithmetic"), or simply the mean or average when the context is clear, is the sum of a collection of numbers divided by the number of numbers in the collection.
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Breaking wave
In fluid dynamics, a breaking wave is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy.
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Fluid dynamics
In physics and engineering, fluid dynamics is a subdiscipline of fluid mechanics that describes the flow of fluids - liquids and gases.
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Flux
Flux describes the quantity which passes through a surface or substance.
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Infragravity wave
Infragravity waves are surface gravity waves with frequencies lower than the wind waves – consisting of both wind sea and swell – thus corresponding with the part of the wave spectrum lower than the frequencies directly generated by forcing through the wind.
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Momentum
In Newtonian mechanics, linear momentum, translational momentum, or simply momentum (pl. momenta) is the product of the mass and velocity of an object.
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Radiation
In physics, radiation is the emission or transmission of energy in the form of waves or particles through space or through a material medium.
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Radiation stress
In fluid dynamics, the radiation stress is the depth-integrated – and thereafter phase-averaged – excess momentum flux caused by the presence of the surface gravity waves, which is exerted on the mean flow.
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Surf zone
As ocean surface waves come closer to shore they break, forming the foamy, bubbly surface called surf.
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Tensor
In mathematics, tensors are geometric objects that describe linear relations between geometric vectors, scalars, and other tensors.
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Wave shoaling
In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height.
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Wind wave
In fluid dynamics, wind waves, or wind-generated waves, are surface waves that occur on the free surface of bodies of water (like oceans, seas, lakes, rivers, canals, puddles or ponds).
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